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KLICKITAT  –  BEYOND

The name Klickitat derives from a Chinookan word meaning “beyond,” referring to people that lived on the other side of the mountains.

The Klickitat River,

A spirited glacial, spring and snow fed freestone watershed of 75 miles in length, drains the south and east flank of Mount Adams in south central Washington.  The landscape is a unique combination of steep country lined with Basalt, Ponderosa and White Pine, Douglas and Noble Fir, Western Red Cedar, Oregon White Oak, Ash, Quaking Aspen, Big leaf Maple, Mock Orange, Indian Plum, Vine Maple to a variety of Sagebrush and Willow.  The river’s surrounding landscape is a mixture of shrub steppe, basalt walls, forest and mountain.  The watershed’s region is home to a large population of Cascade deer, turkey, cougar, black bear, elk and now most likely a few wolves. Bird watchers enjoy the region as the variety is extensive; from the common Mergansers and Belted Kingfishers to the Spotted Towhee, Red-breasted Sapsucker, Canyon Wren, American Dipper, Nashville Warblers, Piliated and Lewis Woodpeckers , Kestrel Falcons, Bald Eagles and the list goes on.     The drainage is quite steep and in fact some of the lower portions of the river are not navigable due to class 5 rapids.  The Klickitat tumbles into the Columbia River approximately 175 miles from the salt, at the little town of Lyle.  The distance from Lyle, Washington to Portland, Oregon is 72 miles.  In addition, the Klickitat sports good runs of anadromous fish.

 

Anadromous Fish entry

May June July August Sept Oct Nov
Steelhead x x x x x x x
Spring Chinook x x
Summer Chinook x
Fall Chinook x x x
Coho x

 

 

 

 

 

 

River Origins 

The headwaters of the Klickitat river originate on the south and east slopes of Mount Adams and terminates into the Columbia river upstream of Bonneville dam, the only barrier between the ocean and the mouth of the Klickitat.   The topographic map shows an incredible myriad of small streams combining to form this glacial waterway and the river is home to a strong fall Chinook and summer Steelhead run. In addition, the watershed also sports a reasonable amount of spring and summer Chinook, Coho Salmon, resident trout and whitefish.     There are seven major tributaries below the Indian Reservation border that add volume to the system; some more than others.

1-The Upper Klickitat

2-The West Fork and Big Muddy

3-Outlet Aquifer

4-Outlook creek’

5-White creek

6-Summit creek

7-The Little Klickitat

The ‘Upper Klickitat proper’ drains the east slope of Mount Adams and for approximately 20 miles is located in the Yakima Indian reservation and is off limits to access.  Just prior to the reservation and public land border a major tributary , The West Fork, joins the Klickitat. Another major tributary to the watershed  is the “Big Muddy’.  The Big Muddy’ originates from the south flank of the mountain, directly from a glacier and is one of the major culprits in decreasing clarity of  the river during certain times of year; “hence it’s name” the Big Muddy.   The next major tributary is an aquifer that literally comes out of a hillside and is underground for its entire course of travel until it appears and creates a dramatic entry from the hillside as it tumbles into the Klickitat.  This aquifer is underground the entire path and therefore is ‘cold’ water.  In fact the water temp of the main stem Klickitat will drop quite a few degrees once this tributary joins.  Just shortly after the aquifer enters, so does ‘Outlook creek’ from the west as did the aquifer.   White creek, Summit creek and the Little Klickitat all enter from the East side of the river.

 

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River Access

Best access by foot

-Hwy 142 on the east side of the river from the mouth at the Columbia to MM 19 where the road leaves the river.

-The Champion logging road from above Leidl to One Lane bridge – ‘aka’ Summit Creek

 

 

Boat access points and approximate distances

Approximate river mileage

Stretch

5.5

Summit Creek to Leidl

3

Leidl to Stinson

11

Stinson to the Slide

4.5

Slide to Ice House

2

Ice House to Town

2

Town to Pitt

4 miles

Pitt to MM 7.5

2 miles

MM 7.5 to MM 5.5

 

Klickitat Canyon
Klickitat Canyon

Rules and Regs.

The river opens on June 1 and closes Nov 30 from above the Lower River Falls (Approximately 2 miles from the Columbia confluence) to the Yakima Indian Reservation border, ten or so miles above the Salmon Hatchery near Glenwood, WA.

Prior to June 1 from the Lower River Falls to the Columbia river confluence there is a season for Spring Chinook.

All wild steelhead released
Hatchery steelhead – Limit 2

Chinook rules vary for Spring, Summer and Fall runs.  They can change yearly.  Please refer to the current regulations.

Coho rules vary and can change yearly.  Please refer to the current regulations

Single barbless hooks required for all species.

 

Annual River Flows

The river opens in June, typically with good color.  June can be a solid angling month with little pressure and very light glacial influence.  On the contrary, July is heavily influenced by the glacier.  The snow left on the mountain is significantly less and therefore the amount of spring and snow melt water contributing to the Klickitat in comparison to the water originating from the glacier is less. This ratio will attribute to less clarity when the glacier is hit by the heat of midsummer.  Come mid August, the weather patterns begin to change for the better and typically there will be fishable clarity forward for the fly.

The clarity is directly related to heat and rain on the glacier.  If by chance July is unseasonable cool, the river will be in good shape.  Conversely, if September is unseasonably hot, or there is an inordinate amount of precipitation, the river can experience periods of poor clarity.

The average clarity of the river from mid August- November is 3.5 feet.

The Glacial Cycle

As mentioned, one of the major tributaries to the river is the Big Muddy, which drains a glacier.  During the warmer months of the year the Klickitat river will ‘Cycle’ in clarity from the heat (day time) and cooling (night time) of the previous day based on the amount of glacial till being released into the Big Muddy.  Therefore, standing in the river at 7AM will yield a different clarity then at 2PM at certain times of year based on the ‘Cycle’.

 

 

Fishing tactics

Fishing tactics are as you want.  As listed above, the river has a variety of anadromous fish that enter the system. The regulations allow multiple techniques to target the various fish. Everything from side drifting corkies, back trolling plugs, float rods and shrimp, nymphing flies to swinging flies   Barbless hooks are required and the release of all wild steelhead mandatory.  Utilizing single hand, switch and two hand rods in various situations are all effective.

The summer run Steelhead of the Klickitat are comprised of Skamania Hatchery Fish, Wild Klickitat fish and the combination of the aforementioned two.  As noted, the watershed is a steep and spirited river and so are the anadromous fish that return to it.  One of the favorite sayings on the Klickitat is,  ‘There is no better way to get your _ _ _ handed to you than by a Klick steelhead. The Klickitat steelhead are strong and unpredictable. Typically in the 8-12 pound class with fish as large as 18-20 pounds caught occasionally.

The majority of the fish enter the system between June and September, yet fish will trickle in the entire season (June-Nov) from the Columbia Pool based on weather, water temps etc. The steelhead are known to be moody, but mixing up techniques can prove to be very effective with the swung and nymphed fly. Often times fishing sink tips creates more confidence but the Klickitat gives up plenty of fish on the dry line, and for that matter, the dry fly.  As the saying goes, ‘The only way to catch a fish on the dry line, is to fish a dry line.’

The classic nymph set up on the Klickitat is a Stonefly with a trailing egg pattern.  There are a variety of patterns that can be used for the Stonefly and the egg. The same can be said about swung flies….Pick your favorite, have confidence and swing away.  Some of our favorites include Cottrell’s Bucket Bouncer and Searcher,  Muddlers,  The Klickinator, Green Butt Skunk, Blue Fox etc……

Some might say that steelhead ‘bite’ the fly for 3 reasons;

  • Recall – Recall of eating nymphs and the like as young juveniles in the river.

  • Curiosity – Often associated with a hen

  • Aggression – Often associated with a buck

The Klickitat has been also been known to give up steelhead on rather large flies….larger than ‘normal’ for summer run fish.

The Chinook will also ‘bite’ the fly and the fall Kings are an overall better target than the Spring and Summer Kings.  The number of fall fish is significantly larger  than the spring and summer runs. One of the best months to target the fall Chinook is September.  The hens can be incredibly bright and the bucks less but can be an added bonus to your day.

 

Trey Comb’s Excerpt – Klickitat River: Observations by Trey Combs

On a morning in early September, Jack Mitchell and I begin a float on the upper Klickitat, turbulent canyon water with mountains rising almost vertically off the river. I find in these river miles a cathedral like atmosphere.

I’m happy in my own thoughts as I first feel the river beneath my feet.

We’re on the east side of the Cascade Mountains, a sudden transition from the dense stands of fir and cedar to the west, and to the ponderosa pines on the slopes and cottonwoods along the river corridor.  The look reminds of a medium sized trout river in Montana, but we’re searching for native steelhead, big shouldered lighting bolts over 10-pounds, the takes so violent we’ll be left dumbstruck. There’s no rush like it.

We start fishing just below the launch with Jack starting with a waking dry. I follow with a dark SteelFlash pattern. A steelhead leaves the shade of an overhanging tree and takes the fly. I see the fish and think 12-pounds before the steelhead is off.

The river has dropped rapidly, and exposed a new shoreline of mud.  The many fresh tracks reveal animals of remarkable variety, from mink to black bear.  Most intriguing are huge dog tracks with no companion boots tracks. A great dane makes for an unusual drift boat companion, and odder still to free a pet in such a remote area. At the next stop, I see the tracks again. I know the Klickitat originates from Mount Adams’ annual snow and glacial melt. The surrounding wilderness has wolves. Could a wolf have crossed the river and picked up its downstream passage?

Jack hooks the next steelhead, and says in stammering exclamations that this was one of the two or three strongest takes he’s ever experienced. The fish breaks the hook in half and is lost. We talk about little else for an hour.

We come to a whitewater elbow run too powerful for me to safely wade. Jack points to a narrow seam. I find it hard to believe any steelhead would find safety and rest there, but Jack gets out and begins to walk the boat into position so that I can get off a cast. I make a mess of reaching the spot with a 7 foot sink tip and Steelflash,  but finally my fly drops exactly where Jack wants. The fly doesn’t travel a foot before a wild hen fish has the fly that begins grey hounding up through the rapids.  Jack sees the fish turn and race downriver. Currents carry my line downstream with no fish at the end.

We complete the last two miles of our float in the dark.  Thousands of Chinook salmon have left the Columbia River and are pushing their way up the Klickitat. They have nearly reached our take out. Tomorrow promises a new reality.

This is my wild America, and where I go to most be alive.

Tackle Choices

Steelhead and Coho

Single hand rods for swinging;  7-8 weights 9 to 9.5 ft
Single hand rods for nymphing;  7-8 weights 9.5 – 10ft
Switch rods;  7-8 Weights
Two Hand rods; 7-8 weight 12 to 13.5 ft

Spey lines; Short, mid and long belly lines all have applications.
Single hand lines;  Indicator nymph taper, standard weight forward versa-tip package  and double taper dry lines all have applications.

Fly choices range from Intruders to Muddlers, Green Butt Skunks, Skaters, Stone nymphs, Egg patterns and more.

Chinook

Single hand rods for swinging;  8-10 weights 9 – 9.5ft
Single hand rods for nymphing;  8-10 weights 9 – 9.5ft
Switch rods;  9-10 Weights
Two Hand rods; 9-10 weight 12 to 13ft

Spey lines; Short and mid belly lines have applications
Single hand lines;  Indicator nymph taper and a standard weight forward versa-tip package

 

 

Fly Patterns

More to follow

 

 

 

Shuttles and more

Canyon Market  – 100 Main St, Klickitat, WA 98628 (509) 369-4400

Klickitat Trader 99 Main St, Klickitat, WA 98628 (509) 369-3601

 

Closest Lodges/ Hotels

The Steelhead Ranch – 780 Harris Ranch Rd. Gioldendale WA 98620 (509) 962-5959

Lyle Hotel – 100 Seventh Street, Lyle, WA (509) 365-5953

Columbia River Gorge Hotel – 4000 Westcliff Dr, Hood River, OR 97031 (541) 386-5566

The Quality Inn – 808 E Simcoe Dr, Goldendale, WA 98620 (509) 773-5881

Klickitat Riverfront  Inn – 2nd St, Klickitat, WA (509) 369-2035

Best restaurant

The Glass Onion – 604 S Columbus Ave, Goldendale, WA 98620 (509) 773-4928

Best place to get a cold stiff drink – and Eat 

Huntington’s – 95 Main St, Klickitat, WA 98628 (509) 369-4371